Spotlight on Cheddar

Cheddar is arguably the most famous cheese in the world, yet the definition of what cheddar actually is has become diluted and ambiguous over the past 300 years.

For some, cheddar is a young, mild, supple cheese for grating or melting on a burger. For others, cheddar is a gnarly, crunchy farmhouse punch that transports you to the farm gate.

Cheddar was originally developed in the southwest of England, and it is the climate, grass and terroir of that region that I believe creates the greatest cheddar. And of course time…during the make, but also during maturation.

Whilst there is evidence cheddar wasn’t originally ‘clothbound’, this was a subsequent development that stuck, and I now cannot think of truly authentic, artisan cheddar, without imagining the lard coated cloth that envelops the 25kg cheddar truckles during their maturation.

In response to the ambiguity of what makes cheddar, cheddar, there have been several efforts to define and protect more authentic and historic versions. The most prescriptive of these is ‘Artisan Somerset Cheddar’. The key conditions of these are as follows:

• Raw farmhouse milk (exclusively, even in busy periods)
• Clothbound with lard binding
• Pint starter cultures and animal rennet
• Aged a minimum of 11mths at sale

The point of course is to ensure that should a customer wish to experience the most authentic tribute to historic cheddar, this kite mark is how they can do that.

There are three cheddars that satisfy the criteria for inclusion within ‘Artisan Somerset Cheddar’ and they are:

• Pitchfork, Trethowan Brothers, Somerset (available at cheesegeek)
• Westcombe, Calver Family, Somerset (available at cheesegeek)
• Montgomery’s, Montgomery Family, Somerset

I would urge you to try all these cheddars if you haven’t before, and even better try them all together. It is quite extraordinary the differences in their profile and character given they are essentially being made to the same recipe and process. Of course, it is the land, the animals, the milk and the unique microbiological conditions where the cheeses are matured that drive these distinctive variances. I am regularly told by customers that once they have tried these cheddars, they have found it incredibly hard to go back to ‘block’ plastic matured cheddar. 

Expect flavours including umami, brothy, roasted hazelnut, buttery, caramel and farminess to name but a few. And sample the stark difference in flavour profile between the rind and the centre of the cheese. In many ways, one piece of clothbound cheddar is 2-3 cheeses in one.

Cheddar is a product enshrined in our collective British history, and a perfect reflection of our land, our grass and our ‘place’. Do remember that when you enjoy these exquisite cheddars this Christmas. They are telling a story of Britishness, but only a snapshot. Because the very same cheese will taste different next week, and the week after. That’s the romance of great artisan British cheese.